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MOUNT
SINISTER'S NORTH FACE
May 28-30, 2005 |
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An
embodiment of ice, seracs and crevasses, the Chikamin Glacier
slumbers below the North Face of Sinister, our second day's
destination. |
Story
by:
Jason Hummel
We
didn’t leave early enough
to avoid the record heats that swamped the entire state. Instead
we became convinced that the forecasters were crooks. So convinced,
in fact, we planned 5-7 days when only two appeared nice enough
for climbing and skiing. (As to who'll get the last laugh,
we'll let you decide.)
We further planned
to reach Dome Peak later that day which may have been possible
had Troy, Josh and I not racked our brains for gear we could
have forgotten and instead lingered at the cars like the others
and pared it down. The miles ahead provided us plenty of time
to mull that logic! over. Of course that's a standard Hummel
practice: Carry the puddin', forget the rope.
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Carl
getting bushed just before crossing Bachelor Creek. |
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Lowell
crossing Bachelor Creek just before 6-mile camp. |
At
the washed out Downey Creek Bridge we climbed a ladder that
spanned the 10-ft gap left in the wake of the terrible floods
that had wiped out so many bridges and trails in the area.
I hadn't yet seen the damage for myself and was awestruck
by what must have been a massive wall of water. The tiny brook
winding below didn't appear capable of such destruction.
A left several hundred yards ahead led us along the shores
and canyons that this same creek had so ferociously carved.
The same pristine valley that Ben, Josh and I had explored
on kayaks several years prior for much the same reasons we
were journeying up to Sinister Peak now. We yearned to see
beyond the range of roads and skyscrapers into hidden places
that aren't so easily peeked into or marred by man's attention.
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Six
miles ahead comes Bachelor Creek which originates high up
below the first Pass we must cross. For now its waters wetted
parched mouths and washed the sweet down towards the Skoogs
and Alan who we closer than we expected. When they arrived
we continued to rest much longer than we should. It felt so
good to eat and put off what we all knew would be our least
favorite portion of the climb. Alan was the last to arrive
and while his knees were giving him trouble, I know he could've
continued, but he chose not too. My knees have since fallen
into disrepair so I can understand his concern. Pushing through
that kind of pain is not the best decision especially when
it comes to enjoyment years beyond any immediate use.
As
the most focused of our little band, now one less, Lowell
sallied the troops forward. The winding hikers path rises
steadily upward. The waterfalls on the right mark any and
all gains. Between two of them we took our second break. By
then, mother nature's thermostat was on max and we
were beginning to realize its effects. To say it was hot was
like saying that Troy didn't have enough gorp. There must've
been 5lbs of it!
What
the heat did provide was time to think. Questions and concerns
found there much deserved answers. "Why do I do this?"
"How much farther?" "Oh, man I'm only here!"
"Damn, it's noon already!" "What the hell am
I carrying?" "Leave the frickin' jello man!"
While
the others leapt ahead, I lingered back with Carl for several
reasons. For one my knee was pestering me, but secondly I
realized that I wanted to get to know this guy better. He
(nearly) talked as much as I did, was as passionate about
the mountain as I was, and was willing to part with his tales.
We traded stories and jokes while we parried with brush, Salmon
Berries, and Devil's Club. All the while our chatter made
the suffering tolerable.
After
the last creek crossing, I leapt ahead. I knew 10-mile camp
was just around the corner. When I arrived everyone could
be seen sprawled in various positions. "About time,"
and "Let's go," where shouted by the hecklers
between their shovels of food. By the time my pack and I parted
ways no plans to meet were scheduled until Carl arrived. "You
ready! Let's go, Carl." |
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Notice
the log in the background. A fork of the trail even leads
right to it. This must be the horse crossing? |
A
beautiful path used to lead up the alp slopes. Now only a
wasted landscape remain. A few winters back an avalanche had
broken loose and wrecked havoc on the slopes below. The swamp
full of shattered trees, many hundreds of years old just goes
to show the slumbering fury that rests in these mountains
and the overwhelming destruction that it can levy.
Since
the trail was impossible to follow, we climbed the forest
just to the left. The going here was were our hurt began to
show. The heat, the heavy packs, the brush and now steep,
pine-needle matted forest laid the final blow. Reaching the
snow was a blessing! I could only imagine the ski down the
opposite side. How me knees would thank me.
Falling
on my face as I attempted to skin the last 10-ft of trail
over roots was only a precursor to what the other side had
in store. As I stood on a last patch of snow on top of the
pass, I heard Troy yell, "So, how's the ski look?"
What was I supposed to tell him...that there wasn't a
lick of snow, not even a patch until the lake. Instead a,
"I can't tell yet," would have to suffice.
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Lowell
and Dome Peak just before first light. |
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Darkness
was nearing by the time I arrived at Itswoot Lake. I could
see the others further up and thought about continuing, but
I wanted to wait for Troy and Carl. A long time passed before
I saw anyone. The wait was chilly so I put on a coat and walked
around. When I looked back up I saw Carl making his way down.
Every time I glanced back upward, I'd see him a little further
down. By the time he arrived, I had hiked along the lake and
met him to ask about Troy. He said that Troy had decided to
camp at the pass. I couldn't blame him. He hadn't climbed
in many months and this wasn't a great way to break in the
muscles. I then asked how Carl was doing to which he pontificated,
"I've never had to take so many breaks on the downhill."
We
took a break and I asked Carl if he wanted to stop and camp,
but like a steam engine he kept pressing on, this time with
a flashlight. I respected his drive.
Once
we stumbled upon the others, I joined my brother to dig out
a camp and sip some broth before succumbing to sleep. |
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Itswoot
Ridge and the valley below. |
That
night Lowell listened to the following days forecast on a
small weather radio that he had carried up. It's prediction
dashed our hopes of camping at Dome Col. Instead we decided
that we would make a day climb to the summit of Sinister and
return to camp. In order to pull that off, we needed an early
start, which no one looked forward too.
That
morning Itswoot Ridge lay ahead of us and so did the wonderful
views we had all come up here to appreciate. I caught one
looking off of the ridge and several others with my camera
of Lowell before traversing toward Dome Glacier. Before getting
there, a shoulder of rock forces us to drop. Along there,
icy cold slivers of water were found, proving my theory that
it would not be buried under snow.
The
climb up the glacier was taken by several routes that from
afar look impossible to skin. I found it most enjoyable to
climb up right next to the glacier itself; although it may
not be the safest of routes.
Lowell
found a nice place to break on an island of rocks where over
the next half an hour the most difficult act we initiated
was to eat and take photos. John, who was waiting further
up with Josh had different plans. They involved a pair of
skis and some unused vertical. His turns raised us from our
seats and hollers egged him on. My jealousy was significant;
his turns swooped down on perfect corn. And yet I wasn’t
inclined to join? Oh, we had to go, that's right!

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Sinister
boyz. |

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Josh
on the Chickamin Glacier. |
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Lowell
preparing to ski down Itswoot Ridge. |

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Glacier
Peak from a rock highpoint west of the Dome Glacier. |

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Lowell
looking the other way. |

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Lowell
about to shed the skins for bootin'. |
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The
effects of the day before were beginning to wear off, and
the truly awesome feelings that I felt for this area were
starting to take root, especially as we topped Dome Col whose
aspect is crouched high above two glaciers: the Dome and Chickamin;
where as if cast afloat on a sea, we are circled by sea creatures
ranging in size and stature. Dome Peak becomes a shark for
its SW Peaks resemblance of a Dorsal Fin; far off peaks become
schools of fish; below us, Sinister Peak becomes the great
White Whale in Moby Dick, and our skis like spears point towards
him in fierce determination.
Anyhow,
that is how I felt while I was there. Even now looking back
on the photos, I am still caught up in the majesty of the
place.
But,
in reality, going down from the col was slid on sloppy and
sticky snow that we were sure would be too deep to climb.
Snow constantly sloughed down the mountain, grating by like
a slow train. I didn't want to go down further than I had
too and so decided to take a high route between crevasses,
staying as high as possible while remaining below the cliff
band that arched down Sinister's flank. This allowed me to
save several hundred feet of climbing which Josh, Carl and
I needed every bit of. Even at a disadvantage, Lowell and
John soon caught up to us. |
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Sinister
John making confessions. |
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Sinister
John making more confessions. |
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With
anticipation I began the climb up the North Face by sticking
to the left side. Since there was a ridge there, any sluff
would slide to the right. Surprisingly there was none during
the entire climb up!
The
heat was so wonderful and joy of reaching our destination
so inspiring, we couldn't help but feel gladdened. I stood
on the airy summit rock and hollered success. It was really
a very satisfying summit.
Little
did I know the ski would even be better. |

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Josh
traversing to the bottom of the face. |
On
the summit. |
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Balls? |
John preparing
to relax. |
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Dome Peak,
Snowdome and the way we came shown between the two. |
Josh
and my shadow. |
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Lowell
enjoying his well-earned glory. |
The arete
offered a good view to the right. |
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26
years after the first ascent, Carl makes the first descent. |
Josh
and Lowell near the summit. |
Lowell
was the first to leave the summit, followed by John. Once
we joined, several traverses were made in order to judge the
safety of the slope. Finding it safe, we decided that pictures,
film and turns were in order. The snow was perfect!
I would consider it some of the best spring snow I've ever
skied steeps on.
A
small schrund marked the end of the ski, and my high traverse
required plenty of sidestepping. After which a few more turns
brought us to the last big grind of the day. By then rest
and reflection were in order and by then clouds were swooping
down. |
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John
taking all of the show again. |
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Lowell
lusting the good love on the North Face. |
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Go for
it Josh! |
Yeah,
I'll get a pic of you John. |
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Need
I say more? |
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Josh
on crack? |
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Josh
and the storm. Who will win? |
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A
wall of dark clouds encompassed the east. They marched towards
us. Thunder boomed. Lightening struck. Lowell and John decided
to hang back in a crevasse while Josh and I, followed by Carl,
raced ahead. We chose not to linger at the col or summit Dome.
Our axes were buzzing from the electrified air and we were
worried that we would overstay our welcome. It would have
been wiser to stick back with the others, but it was too late
for that. I regret not summiting Dome on this, my third attempt.
When
we didn't see the others behind Josh and I chose to continue.
We began by skiing straight down the Dome Glacier and where
we could keep high, we would traverse. We crossed streams
and rock, more snow and more rock before reaching Itswoot
Ridge again.
Rest
and food were just down the ridge. Both of which we happily
indulged ourselves in until the others arrived. By then the
fog had lowered and we learned that Lowell and John had managed
to summit Dome after the worst of the storm passed.
In
the morning, any decision to leave was already made. Our only
worry was how much our packs would weigh. Carl had a plan,
"I must eat my pack into weightlessness."
None of us could argue with that logic and instead joined
the gluttony.
Since
our plans for a week of skiing were dashed, Josh and I decided
to leave and not stick around. I told myself I would take
it slow, but our booting down from Cub-Lake Pass was anything
but takin' in easy.
We
didn't change into shoes until 10-mile camp where a pair of
clean socks and packed away boots eased the frustration of
all the contortion that the vine maple forced. It wouldn't
be a stretch of imagination to say it was even easy.
We
caught John, master web and dew collector beyond the brush
and followed him to the confluence of Bachelor and Downey
Creeks where we took a short break. There wasn't much cause
to keep our feet out of the river when we set off again. They
were already as wet as they could get.
The
last 6-miles felt like so much more than 6-miles. I'm not
kidding either! John even hung back. Josh and I continued
for no other reason than to see if Troy was at the car. I
think we took 3 hours.
Josh and I waited for Troy (who we now figured we had
passed somewhere along the line) while enjoying what
was left of our food. The weather almost looked nice again
as we wondered up and down the road enjoying the scenery and
reflecting on times past and present, which brings me to Carl
Skoog who passed away on October 17, 2005, on Cerro Mercedario
(6777 m, 22210 ft) in the high Andes of Argentina, and while
I only knew him from a few short experiences, he was someone
that I looked up to and hoped to emulate one day. He was a
photographer and explorer; a lover of nature and friend to
many. |
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Dome Col. |
Dome Glacier. |
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Thanks for the good times
on this trip CARL. |
When
I was a kid, I’d hear about these guys, “The
Skoogs.” I’d hear about their exploits and
about how they’ve “…been all around
these parts.” When I was older I had the opportunity
to ski with them. This summer we skied Sinister Peak in the
Dome Peak region, an area that they had frequented. I felt
like I was crawling over their fence into their backyard.
Carl was behind and so I hung back. I found that here is a
person like me; passionate about the mountains! We’d
tell jokes to make the hike up Downey creek as painless as
possible. For those of you who have climbed up there, you
can only imagine. He made it enjoyable. Further up, I asked
him if he wanted to bivy because it was getting late, but
he pressed on. I respected his drive, his overwhelming joy
to be in the mountains, and his love of family and friends
who equally savored the crisp air, the spring snow, the misbegotten
valleys, the summits, the streams, the challenges, and the
friendships. There is so much! It pains me to know that these
colors won't shine again. That we are losing someone that
so many other people could have gotten to know - that I could've
gotten to know better. |
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Keep crossing
those creeks Carl. We'll meet again. Keep traveling up those
valleys and climbing those mountains. You'll meet all your
friends and family again.
Jason Hummel...
Alpine
State OF Mind.
Or CONTACT ME.
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