Mount
Rainier
Tahoma Glacier Attempt
January 17-19, 2009

Photos
by Jason Hummel Hummel
What
provides energy for the coming work-week requires barreling
ahead full-speed on weekends. So utterly wasted are
you by Sunday night that there's nothing but sweet oblivion
to be found in a deep and desperate sleep. Something
living the city course of life doesn't provide, at least
for me. Somehow I find Nature knows how best to push
the lazy human form from its comfortable life and knock
him face down into the living of it. Only then is he
focused on what is right there in front of him: star-struck
night, mud-cracked glacier, storm-scarred cliff, light-sabered
morning, wind-cursed freeze, fist-gripped hunger. They
all forge a man stronger and leave him appreciating
the homespun amenities like a warm home and plentiful
food. |
 |

All
our worries vanished as dawn cast shadows high on the
Tahoma Glacier. It was my goal for the weekend. Usually
I'd head into the North Cascades, but Mount Rainier,
while busy in the summer, provides a remote feel outside
Paradise in the winter. With 12,000 Feet of vertical
relief, I couldn't think of any place I'd rather be.
The
glacier itself stretches down; arms reaching toward
valleys whose creeks are carved by the same waters that
spill from them. To the sides debris-laden slopes are
the leftovers of eons of grinding and sculpting. In
every direction, it's continuously coming apart. |


Tahoma creek is not a safe place to be when there is
too little snow. We should have gone another way, but
there was always enough reason to continue, especially
with gorgeous slopes hanging above us. So across the
creek, over the creek, and around the creek we went.
After awhile we certainly felt like we were UP THE CREEK.
Warm temps and heavy snow, wet feet and just plain annoyance
at how things were going nearly turned us around. In
hindsight, we could have climbed any of several routes
out of Paradise and put in less effort. Everything was
against us. It's like when I read trip reports written
by someone else who spells out disaster and terrible
efforts, then once arriving, find nothing at all. I
used to think, eh they're just wimps, but I've
learned that a combination of many little things can
set even the easiest of approaches into cement-like
progress.
Case
in point, Hannah, who'd been on this route before, had
turned around and spent the night with plans to get
the heck out of here and her assessment, which she provided
us, should have turned us around, too, but it didn't.
We knew that she was going to be up here climbing another
route and thought we might run into each other. I expected
that to be on the way out! Nevertheless, we continued
past begging for her to change mind and join us. We
left expecting she would continue down the mountain
and go climb something else, but no more than 10 minutes
later, out from the tree-shadows, we saw a speck of
red chasing us down. We all had a good laugh over that.
Once we hit another creek crossing, I think Hannah doubted
her decision. Knee deep in water, Christy must've felt
some camaraderie with her and a diminishing pride as
she nearly pulled Josh headlong into the boiling, frothy
depths of Tahoma Creek, full pack and all. His favorite
watch fed the hungry current instead of them. The beast
was pacified but my heart practically leapt out imagining
gear fishing, 7-ft above the river on rotten snow banks.
|

More
shenanigans met us, but we overcame and entered the
long-faced slopes drooping down from the glacier, clear
of obstacles and speckled with the tops of trees. Above
us, Glacier Island swam in a sea of snow and ice. Perhaps
the name alone is enough to inspire feelings of beauties
impractical existence forged out of storm and time.
With bleeding glows of a dying day sweeping up the afternoon
hours, the last rays of light clung to the slopes until
we reached a camp just below Tahoma Glacier. |

DAY
2
From
out in the distance the sun woke without us. Enough
warmth flooded the tent to pull gear, food, and bodies
from our nests and set us ahead once more. The glacier
and sky blues were wonderful. We traversed up a ridge
before moving rightward. While Josh and Christy had
ski-crampons, Hannah and I didn't. These were needed
because the snow was terribly icy as Christy discovered
as she slipped down the slope, catching her fingers
in the snow, which cuts easily. Just to be fair, she
wasn't alone. |



Hannah
and I chased Josh and Christy who leapfrogged up the
slope while we post holed and cramponed through deep
snow and ice. Each of us was regretting not having ski-crampons.
Besides
climbing, there wasn't a lot that happened between then
and our next camp, also found just as the sun crawled
under the horizon. Before darkness, we pitched our tents
beneath Sunset Amphitheater, at approximately 10,200-ft.
I could imagine no better home for the night. |







DAY
3
There
is nothing like waking up in the middle of the night,
to a cold and alien landscape, where blacks and grays
swim between crevasses and rolls. The clink of axe and
pons, the pulling of rope and harnesses soon come together.
Behind us, the stars winked and sparkled as did the
city lights. We made fast work of the climbing and had
higher hopes than we had begun the morning with as we
progressed up the mountain.
Out
from our camp, reaching out for miles, a shadow formed
to the west several hours after we began. Like a pyramid,
the mountain was painted on the rolling hills. If you
haven't seen this before, it is really spectacular!
By
this time, the glacier had been blown away to ice, leaving
us no hope for softer snow to ski. I yelled at Hannah
and she climbed up to me. We talked about what we should
do. We were worried about the time it would take to
climb up and back down, instead of skiing down. We had
a long way back and had to get to work. Hannah had no
such constraints. Plus she still loves to climb for
the sake of it and I guess I do, too. I just like to
ski more.
Talking
to the others, we agreed and so thereabouts at 12,000-ft,
we parted ways. Hannah continued upward and the rest
of us climbed down the hard ice and snow to where it
was marginally safe enough to rattle ski edges back
to camp. |

Our
skis brought us quickly to camp where a nap was called
for. We watched Hannah climb, but couldn't wait for
her. Since the day was gorgeous and we knew it'd take
time to get out, we started off. With a glance back,
I could no longer see the tiny black dot that was Hannah. |


We
took tons of time going down the glacier. Every rise
and aspect was searched out for the best snow. Too many
were a sheen of ice. All around there were plenty of
cracked smiles and awe-inspired hoots as we rushed down
toward the valley and, once again, Tahoma Creek.
I'd
like to say we learned from the way up, but we didn't.
The snow was so sloppy and disgusting. At one point
I abandoned a high track for the creek, knowing full
well what I'd be submitting us to. Christy, though,
for all her smiles and laughing was not so happy when,
at one point, she fell into a tree well, perhaps 7-ft
down. After climbing up the tree branches, she was able
to gather her gear she had tossed from below. By now,
after 3 days, she was done and Josh and I were doing
everything we could think of to make the way out easier.
In the end, thinking back now, I must've made every
poor decision possible. What I realized was this small
bit of mountain wisdom: lots of easy choices don't end
up making things easier. How that works, I don't know,
but it was a good lesson.
The
worst was when we found the sides of the stream bed
had melted. How that we either spend another hour going
back and another hour climbing around, or climb the
30-ft up the wall in front of us. I should've chosen
option one. Climbing a vertical wall interlaced with
rock and clay, was foolish. All the handholds were temporary.
We made it over, told ourselves how stupid we were,
and then made another half dozen creek crossing. Awesome.
|








As
the sun slipped away for the last time, I skated across
the ice rink that had become the stream bed, gliding
for a half mile to a corner of the creek where I could
see Mount Rainier and the Tahoma Headwall. It was aglow
and I was bummed I didn't have a big tripod and a long
lens, but I did my best before catching up. By then,
it was pitch black and I could see Christy's tiny light
bouncing in the darkness and hear her skis schussing
down the slope. While waiting at the end of a creek-spur,
I saw Christy barrel headlong into a tree. All I could
see was her headlamp pointing in the air. All I could
hear were her groans. How darkness changes things.
Eventually
reaching the road, we met the first of many avalanche
piles that were so easy when soft on day one. Now they
were rock hard! That night we all busted our asses on
those damnedable ice piles! Christy did the right thing
by walking over them, but Josh and I still skied. Soon,
I fell hard on my side, breaking my ski pole in half.
The next 3 miles of road would’ve been easier
to skate had I poles to do so. Oh well, I still enjoyed
parts of it. The night was brilliant, casting shadows
through the trees. |


Finally
a gate and car grew out of the road, instead of more
fallen trees, and the trip was at a completion. I looked
back and could only imagine Hannah's escape. Hearing
of it later, I could only commend her. She and Christy
are mountain women for sure. It takes a special breed
to deal with the torments that these mountains dish
out. For Christy, Josh has submitted her to many tests.
This was her biggest, one she'd been begging more than
a year for. You can't learn unless you fail and you
don't lose unless you let your chin down. Way to keep
your chin up Christy! You're a winner. And Hannah, you're
an animal.
And,
to end, how about a story...
Back
in the city, working out at the gym the week after,
Christy is approached by a woman who has a very concerned
look on her face. She motions to her and says, "Is
everything alright at home?" Thinking that her
husband was being less than civil, to which Christy
laughs and says, "I was just out climbing."
This provides an even more concerned look. A black eye
(flashlight), bruised arms and legs (trees, tree wells,
avalanche debris, and creeks) and ragged look (all the
above), what's the city supposed to think? I'll tell
yeah. They don't know what to think, but we do. It's
our fuel and without it we can't survive. So, until
our next adventure.
Thanks
for coming Josh, Christy and Hannah!!! |
Alpine
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