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Mount
Rainier-Central Mowich Face 14,411-ft |
July
16-18, 2005 |
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The
Mowich Glaciers and Face, right and Ptarmigan Ridge,
Liberty and Willis Walls can be seen to the left. |
Then
is not Death at watch |
Within
those secret waters? |
What
wants he but to catch |
Earth's
heedless sons and daughters?
....Edmund
Blunden |
Jason, Josh, Sky, Hannah,
and Phil
I see the Mowich
on clear days and it usually takes my breath away, if
only for a moment between traffic jams. Still, during
those weekdays coming back from work, I am left with
one overriding desire, especially on those sunny spring
days, and that is, "I want to ski it!" I want
to dance with the exposure and face my fears, overcoming
them with each knee grinding, mind bashing turn. Only
then, you see, would I look up and smile, because I
had done it. |
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Indian Paintbrush
are the red flowers. Surrounding those are Lupine. |
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On
Friday, I told my boss I would be seeing him tuesday.
Mid saturday after fooling with permits and such, we
were faced with the prospect of heaving our loads up
to camp. Sky would stay behind and wait for Hannah,
a young women who planned to join us for the climbing
portion. The rest of us continued up through the spectacular
meadows full of every color flower. I would surely be
happy to just stay and take it all in, but the pull
of the mountain was intoxicating. Like drunkards we
drank in the mountain with every step forward, too involved
in its minutiae than we should have been. Too many glances.
Too much looking through binoculars. And too many thoughts
back on my past attempt
to ski the Mowich. It was just more fear for the vultures
to feed on. By the time I was at camp, I was so full
of tension and apprehension that I thought I would just
curl up and die.
That night was
beautiful and the soft glow of pink washing the upper
slopes of Rainier calmed my fears. "No problem,"
I would say, "It's a joke." Until morning
my dreams would be filled with fanciful tales of Men
and the Mountain, skis and the almighty edge biting
its teeth in with each turn downward.
From camp just
below Observation rock, we expected to meet Sky and
Hannah, neither of which we had seen thus far. To burn
the time we climbed to the top, and gazed as far down
the valley as we could for any sight of either of them.
No luck and so we returned to camp, relaxed some more
and ate before hearing a voice calling out, "Are
you guys climbers?" |
Louswort, a variety common
only to Mount Rainier Park. |
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Phil hiking around
a tarn to a better campsite. |
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Phil, Sam and
Josh and the summit of Observation Rock. |
Motel 6. |

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A massive waterfall
pouring out the snout of the Mowich Glacier. |
Phil
commented, "Who is asking?" Before
adding, "Are you Hannah?" She was
and thought that Sky was ahead. Dropping her pack, she
made a made dash up the Ptarmigan ridge, yelling out,
"SKYYYYYY!"By the time she returned
without him, we were all well on our way into packing
our gear and preparing to go. As it turns out, Hannah
hadn't met Sky that morning, and didn't know where he
was. We figured he would be able to find his own way
(we surmised that the skier she had saw wasn't him,
because he didn't have skins) and so after everyone
was ready, we ascended slightly higher, to about 8200-ft,
before dropping down to the Mowich Glacier. |
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I present
without further aduei, THE MOUNTAIN PEACOCK. |
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Slumber Party. |
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At least she doesn't complain
about her feet Sky, unlike you. |
Home away from
home. |
At the glacier, we could now
see Sky halfway up. Jokingly we had admitted that
it would be funny to see him there, knowing that his
smug expression would be reflected back. Yells of,
"Aurgh, there he is," couldn't be helped.
After the joys associated with jumbled volcanic rocks
and dust, we were starved for water, especially after
a 1000-ft of it. Once I had poured a good deal of
it out of my shoes and put my ski boots on, I wondered
carefully over to a stream. Between folds of blue
ice, carved like a fountain, cold spring water leapt
from its prison and threw itself down a deep cavity
into the depths of the glacier. Earlier I had seen
the culmination of all of these streams rushing over
cliffs that ring the terminus, creating a waterfall
that is eye candy enough for any man to take pause
and appreciate the forces of nature.
After we ascended the glacier
to a 9100-ft camp, we had plenty of time to bask in
the heat, and watch the debris rain down either side
of our island. It was hard not to suddenly be startled
from a near slumber by a bigger than usual splat,
many of which labored on and on throughout the day.
By dinner there was more calm and by sunset there
was enough to finally let down your guard and surrender
to sleep.
With morning my apprehension
had returned, even though I was feeling strong. From
our camp we traversed around an icefall whose towers
gave pause, if only for a moment before any realization
of their toppling over was imagined. Debris from the
icefall between the Edmund's Headwall and the Central
Mowich had already left a swath of glacier covered
in its wreckage. Once we were by this, we were able
to start ascending the face. By then the headlamps
could be stored and since that needed to be done,
a break and water were also taken.
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Alpenglow
on the Mowich Glacier. |
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Alpenglow on the Mowich Headwall. |
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Josh on the Mowich Face waiting
for me to take a photo. |
Here it is. |
Next we crossed
the bergschrund at over 10,000-ft, making long traverses
back and forth to conserve energy. At that point our
group was beginning to split and Sam was complaining
of some intestinal issues and didn't think that he would
be able to keep up. I kept looking down until I couldn't
see him any longer. Josh was above me and I told him
to just go straight up the face, which wasn't any easier
due to the snow hardening. While being perfect conditions
for climbing, the ski was another consideration entirely.
A battle was brewing in my head about risk and return,
and the overall long-term success of a short-term strategy.
Basically I didn't want to die, just to say I had skied
something. As I climbed up even harder snow towards
only steeper and more exposed snow and ice (as if that
mattered at that point), I chose the conservative route
over the uncertainty that climbing to the top would
surely guarantee. Plus I didn't want to position myself
at the top with only my skis and thousands of feet of
vertical between me and the bottom. I would then be
set to go for it, as I am a much better skier than climber.
Just then a rock whizzed by within millimeters of Josh's
head. Fuck it! As soon as we reached Sky, Phil and Hannah
I voiced my apprehension and Phil and Josh both remained
with me. Sky went ahead both because he had to get Hannah
to the summit and because he had more faith than us.
I can't tell you how close I was to just going for it,
especially after watching a 20 year old girl (umm WOMAN)
soloing up the face towards the upper variation (huge
respect for that BTW). As it would turn out, we would
all have copious amounts of time to fight our demons
while we faced the cold night and day before the sun
thankfully blanketed our icy hell. This woke us up and
also illuminated our restful worries with a reality
looking more prosperous by the minute. At that point
I did regret not going, but the wind brought me back
to reality and the glaze reflecting off the face higher
up to the foolhardiness.
I took cautious
turns all the way down the face, taking only one opportunity
to take a photo near the very bottom. After that I didn't
risk another shot thinking that I would have more joy
milking my turns than I would taking pictures. |
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Looking back up. |
Debris from the icefall. |
Below the bergschrund, we crossed
the avalanche debris and stopped to take a photo of
the towering serac's that we had earlier passed. Just
then Phil commented that he saw someone on the upper
face, possibly down climbing. He wasn't sure because
he was moving slow and on the wrong part of the face.
After a few moments we realized that it was Sky. Phil
and Josh skied further down and I pulled out my camera
in order to get a better look. Using my elbow, I steadied
the camera and focused in. As he came into view my heart
leapt as I saw him make a turn, then another. Only the
slight spray of ice crystals marked each turn. A plane
buzzed by for the second time, very near him. He was
still there...another turn, another. He's at the variation,
just above where Ben, Josh and I had turned around four
years back. This was the crux and the moment that separated
his going for it clouded my vision and my shaking didn't
help me see him through the camera. Will he go? Yes!
A sudden push and dash forward put him below the variation.
"Way to go man," was all I said. I didn't
know what else to say, as it was one of the most hair
raising things I have ever watched. One moment I likened
it to was watching a guy leap from a 180 cliff called
Sugarloaf, down into the waters of Deep Lake, an experience
that severed his spinal cord. Sky's situation was much
more perilous, but each turn lower, I was set more and
more at ease. Once he reached our turn around point,
I decided to ski down to camp.
I didn't know how to feel at
that point. I had really wanted to ski the face, as
it was number one on my list of descents. Still my anticipation
of putting myself in the same situation as 4 years ago
(where we had skied down in very icy conditions) wasn't
something that I wanted to do. Sometimes going back
to a demon you think you know is worse than the unknown.
I was glad that a friend was able to ski the face, get
to the bottom and tell me about it. Now I don't have
to go back. |
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Josh skiing by the huge seracs. |
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Phil skiing by with a lower
F-stop. I should've kept the first. |
Sky is in the middle of this
photograph above the center cliffs. |
Several minutes
later Sky reached camp in a clumsy manner. Josh yelled,
"At least you weren't like that on the face!"
Sky could only
say, "Oh man, I'm retiring. I don't know where
to go from here." He further commented that, "This
wasn't skiing, this was a descent." The mountain
peacock had his feathers ruffled a few times. He described
his error of making a wrong turn on the variation, and
his sketchy turn into the chute above there where it
took him 15-ft to stop.
After all this
excitement, the ski down the glacier was dull in comparison,
but at least the water was just as pleasant and satisfying
because the long scramble back up the talus would need
every bit of motivation. Since my knees where still
aching from a few weeks back, I wore my boots all the
way to Observation Rock, where I was able to piece together
snow down to a muddied lake, which captures most of
the runoff. Sky and Josh must have regretted walking
while Phil and Sam where glad they had skied. This didn't
gain us any time. Both Josh and Sky hiked by and we
didn't see them again until the car. |
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The way we came. You can see
our camp on the upper left hand corner. |
Another shot
of Sky and the route. |
The
meadows looked ever prettier. I regret not taking any
more photos of them, but the pull of the car and food,
sleep and freedom from my pack were all the more pressing
at the moment. My memory will have to serve me well
and you'll just have to get up there and see this precious
place for yourself.
Finally the trip
was over. A long weekend, a challenging climb and ski,
and a fantastic show of bravado from Sky who pulled
off what we weren't willing to do. Thanks for the show
Sky and thanks to everyone else who came, especially
Hannah who had to deal with our crews sour language
and fanciful tales. I would also like to add one more
thought though. Today in traffic I caught sight of Rainier
and the Mowich while stuck in traffic. It seems I still
dream of my skis dancing down its face - and - maybe
that's all I'll ever do. For now that's close enough
to reality for me... |
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HOME |
Conac sunset. |
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