Eldorado
Peak, East Ridge
October
13-14, 2007
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Photos
and story by Jason Hummel
~Every
weekend is a fascination for me. How can I make it
better? What new adventure is there? Oft, I feel like sitting
one out but rarely is it that I regret shrugging my heavy
pack on, skipping a night’s rest, and heading out into
the hills. After this weekend, another perfect-fascinating
weekend, how could I ever complain about my life? I am too
lucky. Life is too good. And…this weekend, a celebration
of sorts – My BIRTHDAY. Mother Nature herself came out
to visit me in the most wondrous of ways, with a blue colored
dress laced with white streaks and a pearl of yellow on her
crown. I couldn't have been more thrilled!
Beginning
as beginnings are apt to be when it comes to alpine starts
begin well before dawn with Christy, Josh and I meeting Phil
and Sam just outside Seattle. It was 3 a.m. I was laid out
in the back of the car forming dreams of a perfect weekend
that hadn’t even cast its shadow down these car-light
washed highways or star-lit heavens. These dreams of powder
hidden behind tall peaks and corn laid smooth on glaciers
stretching all the way to the valley bottoms left me seeking
sleep instead of reality. I was tired and the hike up would
be anything but joyous.
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Another
would-be ski-mountaineer errant met us at mile 20 on Cascade River
Road. Tony was armed with a video camera and began filming what
I am sure will illuminate many on my lack of acting skills and poor
thought out quotes. Even then, near 6 a.m. I was attempting to think
of something stupid to say.
The
climb for the day was ELDORADO PEAK whose classic East Ridge can
be picked out from dozens of peaks. Its characteristic summit block
provides a tempting slope for a skier, but surely not tempting are
the four thousand feet of boulders and steep forest to get to snow,
let alone to the top of the peak which stands at 8876-ft. Right
then, at the parking lot, we are at 2160-ft. One benefit for us
was a log perfectly situated to get us across the river to the steep
climbers trail. It doesn't mess around. Still dark, I say at one
point to Christy, "What a beautiful day,"
to which she responds, "What DAY, it
is still DARK." I think that she is still getting used
to this hiking-for-skiing business. I tell her, "It will be
worth it. You always forget this part." She was less than thrilled
and probably was wishing the forgetting would begin post-haste.
Soon
the trail meanders into a boulder field where the right-hand side
makes for the easiest way up. We missed that of course. Boulder
fields led to Vine-Maple and Alpine Fir trees speckling the slope
along with berry bushes and yellowed grass. Fall, cut short by early
snow, was not lost here. Colors cast a vivid spectrum throughout
this altitude and the air waft of fall smells. I LOVE this time
of year.
Blue
berries still clung to bushes even as snow threatened to bury them.
We left our shoes next to large rocks and continued upward in deepening
snow. Eventually we changed to skins and the weight of both boots
and skis off the back was thanked for, maybe not in words, but sighs
of relief surely.
Rock
slabs and steep slopes lead to a pass near the six thousand foot
level. We donned the skis again and dropped into Roush Basin below
the Eldorado Glacier. This was a pain due to a few inches of break
away snow on slippery rock slabs. Time wasted was further consumed
on the boulder field below. Sometime later we finally reached consistent
snow and last dibs on water. We all raced up the glacier to camp
at the 7500-ft level. Clouds that had earlier emerged all but disappeared
and with food in us and camp set up, it was time to get our reward,
a climb of Eldorado.



I
am surprised sometimes by the stark contrast of the valleys and
the cities that fill them, to the glaciers and mountain tops that
crown the North Cascades. I often tell others of my exploits and
they ask, "Where did you find snow?"
Or, "What ski resorts are open?"
So few understand the true beauty that can be found with effort,
and kids these days seem so obsessed with easy (fast food and video
games) and I think parents are to blame. What is good takes effort.
It takes suffering. All good things in life do. That is why I think
the mountains are good for people.

What
was hoped to be good for us turned out to be jaw dropping. At a
leisurely pace we wrapped around to the East Ridge and began our
climb up. Views of Klawatti, Torment, Forbidden and Tepeh Towers
where fantastic, but what held me longest was Moraine Lake and Sahale
set aglow by the pinkish light of sunset.

The
final summit climb was left to Christy, Josh, Tony and I to finish.
Sam and Phil had climbed several times before and wished to get
down before darkness hit. What temptation I had was shrugged off,
above me was the top and a night ski was looked forward upon rather
than feared. The day was so calm; it felt like I was somewhere else
other than a mountain?






The
summit arête was angelical, the soft snow flooded with light
and the hard ice of the other side, dark. Josh led the way to the
summit and I took photos. A story he later told was hilarious. There
he was mere feet from the top and, with him, a spider. This little
beast skittered across the snow at such an egregious pace, Josh
was left stumbling behind, second to the top, behind the spider.
We
all took turns spinning our heads in every direction and I think
that Christy was just then forgetting that day's efforts. I took
a photo of Josh and her - both can been seen with rather large smiles.






The
ski down was less than memorable, except for the top where nice
snow was hidden from that day's warmth. The rest was icy. We made
it back to camp in the dark, stars already pinpricking the dark
veil above. The other's were cooking and eating and we were jealous.
I decided then to try my hand once more at night photography. This
time I set a 36 minute exposure at f3.2 using the long-exposure
feature in the camera settings. The Big Dipper was situated right
over Eldorado, so bright I felt like I was sitting amongst them.
The shot was beautiful, but had a red cast that my camera appears
to add. I took another shot that ran until the battery died. It
was sharper, but also had the red cast. Further reading will tell
me if this is common place or if I just made a mistake. At that
point I was too tired to try another.


In
the morning I slept in, my sunrise missed but the tiredness of the
day before dissipated, thankfully. That morning, the 14th, now my
birthday, required reward, so I strapped on my back and headed for
the top of a small peak I'd had my eyes on. Phil was the only other
heading out so I chased him down, but he was not interested and
thought it was too icy. So be it, icy or not an early summit was
going to be my present.
The
climb up was crampon and whippets, never too steep but exposed and
surely, as Phil had guessed, icy. A fall would be unwise. I stood
on the summit and just sat there, casting my eyes at views made
more precious by my seeing them alone. The small snowy bit at the
top was too dangerous to stand on for a breeze could knock you off
balance and a tall cliff would happily fly by as you fell. I wasn't
looking to be the glaciers breakfast so after a time I sat just
below.




Copious
sidestepping and a few turns brought me down the face to where Sam
was waiting. We took some turns down towards Moraine Lake on softening
corn before climbing up. Once back at camp, breakfast was served
and not long after, camp was packed and we were leaving.


Down
at the bottom of the glacier, we dropped our packs and climbed back
up twice. The turns had were the best of the trip! We were all sad
to have to leave and, none of us, surely, wanted to go back down
to the car just yet. The day was so warm, but end it must. For the
sake of leaving this trip on a high note, I'll end it at the pass
above the Eldorado Glacier, where, with one last view I made a promise
to come back. Next time there'd be several days and many more peaks
on the schedule. Until then, I had a great birthday (the
BEST). And I must admit, Mother
Nature knows how to take care of the faithful. Although, admittedly,
if she looks too close, she may see me cursing her whenever the
weekend forecast is warm and rainy.
(some
more photos to enjoy)











Poem
Lyrics of Eldorado By Edgar Allan Poe
Gaily
bedight,
A gallant knight,
In sunshine and in shadow,
Had journeyed long,
Singing a song,
In search of Eldorado.
But he grew old
This knight so bold
And o'er his heart a shadow
Fell as he Found
No spot of ground
That looked like Eldorado
And,
as his strength
Failed him at length,
He met a pilgrim shadow
"Shadow," said he,
Where can it be
This land of Eldorado
"Over
the Mountains
Of the moon,
Down the Valley of the Shadow,
Ride, boldly ride,"
The shade replied
"If you seek for Eldorado!"
More
reading: Eldorado and Klawatti
Alpine
State OF Mind.
Or CONTACT ME. If
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