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Mount Baker-Park
Headwall via BP Cleaver 10,781-ft |
August 6-7 2005 |
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Jason,
Josh, Paul, Hannah, and Seth
Tomorrow,
and tomorrow, and tomorrow,
Creeps in this pretty pace from day to day,
To the last syllable of recorded time;
And all our yesterdays have lighted fools
The way to dusty death. Out, out, brief candle!
Life's but a walking shadow, a poor player
That struts and frets his hour upon the stage,
And then is heard no more: it is a tale
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.
....Shakespeare:
Macbeth |
Summer
skiing is like ice cream for breakfast. Mount Baker
is just one big sundae.
Paul, Josh and I found ourselves deciding that a bivy
Saturday night would add to our weekend splurge. The
shooting stars rocketed across the night's sky and
the Milky Way wowed our dulled senses more used to
the cities muffled reflection of it.
The
warm breeze reawakened us at 7am. Hannah and Seth,
who had slept at the parking lot, could be seen inching
up towards us. Meanwhile we gathered our gear and
were able to meet them at the end of the moraine,
pass a hello, before continuing up to the fixed line
that leads to the ridge top.
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Baker
Lake and forest. Photo: Josh |
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Our
bivy site. |
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There
was snow where the ridge steepened, and this is where
we all met up again before continuing with shoes up
both the rock and snow, whatever appeared the easiest.
After a few thousand feet, battle with the intolerable
heat had won a victory, and left us downing our supply
of water to lessen the sting of defeat.
More
climbing up snowfields eventually ended as we made
our way off of the Boulder-Park Cleaver onto the glacier
proper. Crampons were strapped on so we could stay
on the ice rather than the soft snow and they were
kept on since the Park Headwall was coming up.
After
another break we made the final push to the summit
by first negotiating a bergschrund. We figured since
Seth works for RMI (a guiding service), and since
he does this stuff for a living, we'd allow him the
privilege of breaking tracks for us. After he climbed
over the cornice on top, a "Thanks man,"
from each of us was payment enough.
It
became quit a bit more chilly on the summit and coats
were quickly adorned to fend off its chill effects.
Either that or thoughts of the Park Headwall were
worming into our confidence. Either way the summit
wouldn't be extending any invitations and we weren't
inclined to overstay our welcome.
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What are you smiling about, eh?. |
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Looking towards
Baker Lake. |
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Seth, Paul, Hannah and Josh
with Shuksan behind. |
Climbing up the glacier. |

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Working our
way off of the Boulder-Park Cleaver onto the Park Glacier.
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One particularly
exciting crack that provided pause before crossing. |
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That crossing. Photo: Josh
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Seth. Photo: Josh |
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Hannah crossing debris.
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Josh and Seth climbing the headwall.
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Looking down on Hannah. |
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Standing on the summit.
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Skiing off of the summit cap. |
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How does
it look, bro? |
Seth
and Paul didn't feel comfortable skiing the headwall
and joined Hannah on the descent of the Boulder
Glacier while Josh and I looked for the best place
to drop in. The snow throughout wasn't appealing,
offering an icy crust (that easily broke away) over
slush and another layer of hard snow. At the top
I did manage to turn, if conservatively while lower
down I resorted to the classic sidestep and sideslip
technique. When we both arrived at the bottom, we
were pretty happy. One of these days I'd like to
get that route in good condition; it makes all the
difference.
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No,
this is how you do it bro. Photo: Josh |
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It must be good? |
Seth going fishin'
for a ski. |
Fortunately
there was still thousands of feet of promising skiing
to go, the first turns of which we watched as the
others skied down to join us. There was some scattered
rocks and Hannah didn't want to scratch her nice
skis, so she took them off and fumbled one of them.
In a gulp the first crevasse hungrily swallowed.
Since we hadn't used the rope, now seemed like a
good time to do so. Paul would lower Seth who had
just finished making a bollard with his skis, down
into the crevasse. Near the end of the rope which
is a 100-ft, he called out, "I see it 20-ft
below!" Paul was looking at maybe 5-ft of rope.
I got his pack to lay on and he gave him as much
slack as possible. We didn't know whether or not
he was able to retrieve it until he climbed over
the top...with a ski and a weary expression. He
told us, "I was on a ledge when I yelled that
I had 20-ft, when that broke and dropped me another
10. With your slack and my inverting and reaching
out with my axe, I was able to snag it."
The
sun had lagged behind Baker and the shadow now marched
down the glacier, always one step ahead of us. There
was so much wide open terrain up there that we couldn't
help ourselves. The route did tighten up into a
chute which we all skied down before waiting in
the next slope. There I told Hannah, who is new
to skiing that she should "...go first. It's
so much better that way." Well, we did provide
her with a show.
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Hannah happy as
pie. Photo: Josh |
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Skiing down the glacier. Photo:
Josh |
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Chasing the sunshine...and
losing. |
Paul with some crazy
light in the background. |
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Seth Pistol. |
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Josh skiing down with
the headwall behind. |
Continuing
down. |
All
four of us raced ahead; Paul and Josh in front with
myself and Seth just behind. We were all pretty
close to each other when we came to a constriction.
From the look of it, there was snow on the other
side, somewhat molding the two slopes into one.
Unfortunately this was just an appearance. I'd like
to say there was some other reason for what we were
about to do, but I can't give you anything definitive.
We just skied off of the lip, with no check on our
speed, no look over. Nothing. All I remember seeing
is rock and hearing Josh and Paul crashing into
them while I was in mid-air. 20-ft or more downslope
I landed on steep blue ice and within 10-ft crashed
into a boulder. My pack took most of the force of
what must have been 20 mph. What I remember most
is my head glancing off of the volcanic rock and
the pain in my ass. Between those and the cold,
dripping ice I was surprised to see the others standing.
Josh took at least 20-feet vertical and did the
only thing he could, he stuck it. With no helmet
there was no choice. The cost was two bruised knees,
sprained ankle and thumb, random cuts and bruises,
and a quarter inch section of his scalp missing.
Both my arms were cheese graded, my head smashed,
and worst of all the bruise on my rump. Paul was
further right than both of us, and ended up with
his share of cuts and bruises, but no debilitating
wounds. Hannah put it this way, "That was
one of the most horrific things I have ever witnessed."
Now
how about the hike out and the remainder of the
ski? I was doing my share of whining, but in all
actuality, I think that Josh got the worst of it.
There was a section of rock to down climb before
one last ski down to water. Seth and Hannah were
nice enough to help us get our ski gear situated
before the hike out, me most of all because I had
a difficult time bending over. I took the hike slow
and dreaded the fixed line and the ~60-ft of rock.
In all actuality it wasn't that bad.
Finally back at our camp, our gear was split amongst
the living. Hannah had a first aid kit and helped
me inventory my wounds and get some antiseptic on.
Since I knew that I would be the slowest, I continued.
When the others caught up I told stories to make
the time fly by. At least for me. Sorry guys .
Of
course, what is an epic without a miserable hike
out in the dark that makes you dream of the Twilight
Zone, and how your group is the victim of a never-ending
trail. Once at the cars, all fanciful imaginings
could be forgotten, but the wounds would leave a
lasting impression not as easily buried.
For now, I think that I'll get a bowl when I want
ice cream rather than eating out of the carton.
As for summer, I believe that I'm truly going fishing
this time.
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Bloody Thumb.
Photo: Josh |
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Bloody
arm. Photo: Josh |
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The
launch pad. Photo: Josh |
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Alpine
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